Thanks to the good people at Evox Television for posting my blog about the basics of wine pairing!
Check out the link here.
True Terroir: A Wine Blog
Tuesday, February 17, 2015
Sunday, February 2, 2014
Portrait of a Sommelier
Last summer, the Del Mar Theater, a
refurbished Art Deco movie house in downtown Santa Cruz, held a one-night-only screening
of the film Somm, a documentary that
follows four men as they prepare for the most difficult test in the world, the Master
Sommeliers examination. The Santa Cruz Mountain Wine Growers Association hosted
the event, which included a wine tasting that took place before the show, and a
Q & A session with a special guest after the film.
With documentaries, you’re never assured
of a Hollywood ending. The film portrays the emotional, grueling, and often
humorous journey of four men who attempt to pass an examination with a success
rate of about 4%. Barely 200 people have passed the Master Sommelier
examination in over 40 years, and as Somm
begins, you know that the chances are slim that any of the four
would-be-Master-Somms will pass, let alone all four.
In the end, Ian Cauble, the film’s
hero, learns that he has failed the exam for his second time, although two of
his friends have passed. As the music fades at the end of the movie, text
appears on the screen, and we learn that 16 months after the exam documented in
the film, Ian earned the title of Master Sommelier. When the crowed discovered
that he had passed the exam, the theater erupted in applause. I spotted Ian
under the marquee posing for photographs after the screening, and when he was
through, my friend Heather and I congratulated him on the film and on his
successful completion of the Master Sommelier exam.
Heather and I talked with Ian for a
moment about the 2011 Pinot Noir from Beauregard Vineyards that we had poured
at the reception before the film. Ian had mentioned during the Q & A that
he generally preferred European wines over Californian ones, but that he did
enjoy the wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains, especially the Pinot Noirs
produced here with high acidity and low alcohol. Heather and I had planned on
asking Ian to join us for a drink, but before we had a chance, he invited us to
join him at Soif, one of Santa Cruz’s premier restaurants and wine bars.
While Ian looked over the wine selection, I had a chance to talk with him. I asked if he was still working for Krug, one of the more prestigious Champagne labels, which had hired him the day he passed the Master Sommelier exam. He told me, no, he’d actually had to resign because he had come down with mercury poisoning from eating too much fish while representing Krug, but he is hoping to start his own venture soon.
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Ian looked over the wines on
display and in the carols, and I talked with him about minerality and terroir. We
discussed the undeniable yet ineffable quality of terroir, how it is unique to
location, but also determined by the philosophical beliefs of the winemaker. I
told Ian how I had recently been reading about minerality in wine, and how it
seemed to me that in a white wine this was often expressed by high acidity and
an absence of fruit, but that I was having some trouble understanding how
minerality is expressed in a red wine. Ian nodded, and smiling, told me he’d
found our table a nice red wine with good minerality. In fact, he’d selected three
wines: a 2012 Grüner Veltliner, the third most commonly planted white grape in
Austria, a Premier Cru Chabli, and a 2011 Beaujolais from the Domaine de Robert
Morgon Cote du Py.
Ian had a calm, congenial presence at the table; he didn’t try to control the conversation, and instead seemed content to chime in only when pressed for an answer to a question. He was humorous, and though very knowledgeable, resembled his character in the film only in a cursory manor. He was not at all the studious, uptight person known as “Dad” by his friends in the documentary. In fact, Ian told us that this had only happened on one occasion, but that it happened to be caught on film and had been made to look like a common nickname. Ian doesn’t like to see himself on the screen, and so he had gone over to Soif earlier for a couple glasses of wine while he waited for the film to end. He thinks that he comes off in the film as too serious. In person, Ian is humble, a delightful conversationalist, and quite funny; a couple of times I even had the sense that he was holding some ribaldry back because of the company at the table.
We drank the Grüner Veltliner first. There was a peculiar though familiar spicy taste, but I was having difficulty bringing exactly what it was to mind. What fruit is that, I thought—no, not a fruit, not a spice…Ian leaned across the table after swirling his glass and taking a single sip, and asked, “Do you taste the radish?” Radish! That was what I was trying to think of, but its name had escaped me. With one sip Ian knew exactly what the flavors were in the wine, and had no trouble discussing them. “Let the wine sit in your mouth,” he told the table. “Chew on it, have a conversation with the wine, feel the texture. Do you taste that radish spice? Do you feel how it gives way to a tinge of pink peppercorns on the tip of your tongue?” I could feel the spiciness of a radish slowly dissipate over my tongue till just the very tip and edges burned with a subtle heat—as if I’d pressed the tip of my tongue against a pink peppercorn.
After the dry, mineral-driven
Chablis, we ended with the Beaujolais. This was my favorite of the three wines
we drank that night. I took a sip, and held the wine in my mouth, slowly moving
it about with my tongue. “These grapes were grown in solid granite,” Ian said,
“you can taste it.” And I could.
Thursday, September 26, 2013
What to Eat With What to Drink: The Delightful World of Pairings
It’s difficult for me to pick a single favorite
food and wine pairing. I’m pretty easy to please when it comes to eating and
drinking, and when food and wine are put together there’s not much I enjoy
more. One of my favorite aspects about pairings is that they allow us to
manipulate our palate, and that when food and wine are consumed together they
can exponentially expand our sensory experience. There’s so many different ways
to pair food and wine—sweet and savory, acidic and salty—the different ways
that we can work with weight, richness, fruitiness, etc. is astounding. I often
love to pair with contrasting aspects in mind; it’s fun for me to try and find
unusual food and wine combinations that work well together. I like the
unexpected. There’s joy in surprising your taste buds. However, pairings with
an eye toward comparison, or common characteristics, are always a welcome
treat.
Perhaps my favorite simple, yet exceptional
food and wine pairing while working at Beauregard Vineyards was when my
coworker Lonny brought a treat for after work not long after the release the
2010 Beauregard Ranch Zinfandel. After we closed down the bar, Lonny poured us
each a small glass of the Zin, and brought out a plate he’d hidden in the
fridge. On the plate was a wedge of Humboldt Fog, one of my favorite cheeses. A
soft-ripened goat cheese, Humboldt Fog has a creamy inner encased by a runny
shell, a layer of ash that runs through it, and a rind made of bloomy mold and ash.
The pairing of the rich and herbal goat cheese with the cool-climate, earthy
Zinfandel was breathtaking. In one bite it was as if I were sitting on the edge
of a meadow, surrounded by dry brush and brambles, picnicking in another place
and time. The best pairings have this ability I think, to capture our senses
and to pull us out of the present. By choosing what to eat with what to drink
we take gastronomy into our own hands, and by doing so we become the curators
of an experience that extends beyond the boundaries we are normally confined to
each day into the realm of Dionysian pleasure.
(Lonny: the Man, the Myth, the Legend)
Three More Poems
Thanks to phren-Z for publishing my poems, and for the chance to read at Bookshop Santa Cruz!
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Wine Tasting in Santa Barbara
Rows of newly
planted grape vines stretched for miles on either side of the road on my drive
down to Santa Barbara. The rolling hills that once were occupied by cattle and
the occasional orange grove are now neatly combed and plotted with stakes that
support spindly young grape vines with bright green leaves ready to shade the
grapes about to bud. It was the end of April, and I had two days to attempt a
mini wine tour of Santa Barbara and seek out some terroir-driven wines there.
My
first stop was a private wine tasting at the Yacht Harbor with Drea O’Connell,
a certified sommelier and fine wine specialist. She is spunky, charismatic, and
a great resource when it comes to California wines. Santa Barbara is well known
for its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, though Drea believes Sauvignon Blanc
from the Santa Barbara area is excellent, and will be the next wine to take
center stage there. After tasting through the flight, I asked Drea where I
should go next? She suggested The Funk Zone, a hip location in downtown Santa
Barbara with art studios and lots of tasting rooms. She also suggested I get in
touch with Josh Klapper, the founder and winemaker for La Fenêtra, at Central
Coast Wine Services in Santa Maria. I would have to wait until I was on my way
out of town to meet Josh, so until then, it was off to The Funk Zone.
One
of my first stops was a small tasting room tucked away in an alley. Drake
Cellars had only one group inside, drinking a Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine
that was served on tap, straight from the tank. Though their Chardonnays were
good, I was most impressed by their Pinot Noirs. I had visited a couple other
spots in the Funk Zone, but Drake was the first to offer up a true
terroir-driven vintage. I walked out with a bottle of their 2009 “H Block” from
Bien Nacido Vineyard that night, and was so impressed that I returned the next
day to pick up another bottle, this time a 2010 Pinot named “Les Galets,” French
for ‘pebbles’, specifically the polished river stones found in vineyards in the
Côtes du Rhône.
My
favorite tasting room was the Deep Sea. Located on the pier overlooking the
Santa Barbara bay, Deep Sea offers a wide range of wine styles with
breathtaking views. The owner and winemaker, Tom Conway, was working the day I
visited, and I enjoyed a lengthy conversation with him about terroir,
marketing, wine styles, and our own preferences for certain wines. Tom’s
favorite Deep Sea wine is a 2007 dry farmed Zinfandel, and while I liked this 2007
Rancho Arroyo Grande Zin, my favorite
wine was his 2008 Deep Sea Syrah from White Hawk Vineyard. Both wines were
unfiltered and unfined, and possessed a certain chalky-earthiness that spoke to
my love of single-vineyard, single-varietal wines. After an extra splash of
White Hawk Syrah, I asked Tom if he had any suggestions about other places to
visit on my trip; he suggested I contact Sanguis, which I did, and was able to
schedule a private tasting for the next day on my way out of town.
My
last stop for the day was Municipal Winemakers, where I met my cousin Natalie
for a quick tasting before she met some friends for a birthday party. Our
favorite wine was the 2011 Bright Red, which had great character for a table
red, and reminded me of a true Bordeaux blend. It was so good that I picked up
a bottle to bring back for my friend Drew, who has a passion for chewy,
high-tannic wines. From there, I drove over to La Super-Rica Taqueria, a
must-visit restaurant any time I’m in Santa Barbara, for a couple carnitas
tacos before calling it a night.
The
next morning I headed over to Sanguis. The building where they have their
tasting room and winemaking facility is gorgeous, but a bit out of place in the
neighborhood. Located in an industrial area, and with no sign or address
anywhere I could find, I passed the large, solid, hardwood door a couple of
times before giving it a knock and being greeted by Jessica, the tasting room
manager. It was her birthday, and she was only there to do a little work so she
could have the evening free to meet some friends and family. I was very
thankful that she had agreed to take some time out of her day to invite me into
the winery and show off some of their wines. When I walked in the door, a table
was already laid out with five wines glistening in decanters beside their
bottles. On the wall behind the table was a shelf full of the appropriate
glassware for each wine, some water, and another shelf with corkscrews, the
handles of which were made of polished grape vines. Each wine contained a
little Viognier, even the reds, and the wines were exquisite—bright and full of
character. My favorites were the 2010 Out of Line (94% Chardonnay, 6% Viognier)
and the 2009 Some Poets (95% Syrah, 5% Viognier). All the wines were
unfiltered, unfined, fermented with native yeast, and aged sur lees. Sanguis
also has a second label called “Loner,” which I wish I could have tried, but
they produce so few bottles that they reserve the single vineyard Chardonnay
and Pinot Noir for wine club members only.
After
thanking Jessica, it was time to head north to meet Josh Klapper on my drive
home. Josh used to work as a sommelier, but has since left the restaurant
industry and moved to the cellar. I met him at Central Coast Wine Services in
Santa Maria, where he produces the wine for La Fenêtra and Acote (his second
label). Josh led me through a barrel tasting. He’s trying to make food-friendly,
Euro-style wines, and his goal is to produce classical Burgundy, terroir-driven
wine in Santa Barbara. I asked Josh what he thought was necessary in order to
achieve a wine that expressed terroir. He said that harvest time is the most
important—you don’t want to pick over-ripe grapes. But he added that an embodiment
of time and place and history are also important; grapes should be picked when
there is balanced acidity, sugar, and ripeness. It’s also critical to consider
what wine from an area should taste like. Like every region, every varietal
also has its own peculiarities that need to be attended to. Josh told me, “Pinots
are all about patience and urgency.”
We sampled a
barrel of Pinot Noir from Bien Nacido Vineyard, the same place where the grapes
were grown for one of the Pinot Noirs I had bought at Drake. And then something
registered, something I thought I already knew, but that I had not yet fully
grasped or appreciated: great wine begins in the vineyard, and some places
produce better grapes than others. Bien Nacido is probably the most famous
vineyard in Santa Barbara. Originally planted in the 1970s, the vineyard
stretches for approximately 900 acres. Fourteen different varietals are planted
there, principally Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Before I
left so Josh could finish his cellar work for the day, I asked him if he could
recommend an inexpensive place for lunch. He told me that the place I wanted
was El Toro: Mexican Deli and Tortilla Factory, and to be sure to get the
carnitas. I found El Toro, and ate two of the best carnitas tacos I’ve ever had
in my life. I still regret that I didn’t buy some tamales for the road.
After this trip,
the terroir of Santa Barbara will always bring to mind dark, earthy Pinots and
Syrahs, and carnitas tacos, dripping with juice, dressed only with a little
cilantro and onion. Cuisine as an expression of culture is also a reflection of
location, and of the restraints and opportunities found there. In Santa
Barbara, the geography and socio-economics has lead to the creation of a wine
market that is rightly gaining notoriety among California-wine lovers, and of mouthwatering
caritas cooked so tenderly it almost feels like a mouthful of Syrah.
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